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Post by lincolntbird on Jul 21, 2014 12:44:15 GMT -4
Day one: Car is on jack stands, oil has been drained. Took a video of the engine as the oil flush was working its magic. It made the engine smooth again, so it's good to think it has cleaned up some gunk around the valve train which was making it rattle excessively. Oh, and the oil was green... and a bit foamy... and smelled like coolant. Which is exactly why I'm doing the engine work. (Good to see and hear about your progress on the mighty Sherpa. It is highly possible that all the coolant in the oil could be from a leaking water pump. When I bought my Sherpa it was getting oil in the water and I was told it may have a crook head or gasket. I had the head checked and it was okay. Am sure it was the water pump leaking. My Sherpa will be retired from work soon and become a project and perhaps much pampered.) The video can be seen HEREHandbrake works imageshack.com/i/kq9fc7dcjMonster donk imageshack.com/i/ey355c5ejRust preventative imageshack.com/i/ex43a0e1jOne of the previous owner's bodge jobs... grrr imageshack.com/i/p376e5ebjAll genuine Kms, just the third or so time around I guess imageshack.com/i/ip9579bcj(My Sherpa clocked over the 99999ks today,so as of when I got home it was reading just over 140ks.) Need one of these imageshack.com/i/eyb98113j(I have 5 Sherpas and not one of them has a good interior light and only the car I drive has got reasonable arm rests and even they are starting to deteriorate. One of the spare cars has got some nice home made wooden ones.) And these imageshack.com/i/ey43b09fjDash a little faded imageshack.com/i/exe76ba6jWoolies protecting pristine seats, covered since the day it was first sold imageshack.com/i/km3537acj5 litres of oil from a 2.5 litre capacity... It was green coming out, the coolant has settled to the bottom overnight imageshack.com/i/eze60070j(Hope all goes well with the refurbishment and keep the pics and words coming and enjoy your project)quote]
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Post by sikari2015 on Jul 22, 2014 20:18:07 GMT -4
Okay... time for the engine swap ha! jokes! I wouldn't put a Toyota engine into my Sherpa. This is just the hire car I have while my Monaro is having the rear main oil seal replaced.
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Post by lincolntbird on Jul 24, 2014 11:00:58 GMT -4
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Post by sikari2015 on Aug 2, 2014 3:35:35 GMT -4
Alright, so the first problem I faced is STILL a problem. No matter what I try I can't get the FECKING crankshaft/alternator belt pulley bolt out..... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried fashioning a bracket to replicate the speciality tool, but that failed. I tried using a bolt and wedging a big spanner between it and the sway bars, but that didn't work because the angles were wrong and it just kept falling out. I then evolved that idea, which I thought was pure genius, and setup a car stand so the side bolt was sitting on the car stand. BA-BOW... nope... the damned engine mounts have way too much movement in them so it just lifted the whole engine as I tried to crack the main bolt. imageshack.com/i/eyfx8hjdjI think my ONLY option is to remove the engine.... but now I can't find ANY instructions on how to do that. I don't know where all the bolts are, which ones don't need to be removed or anything like that. I have BOTH a digital and hard copy of what turns out to be the same workshop manual. Neither have any instructions on removing the engine. It's great for stripping the engine, but it STARTS at "attach the engine stand..." ummm W...T....bloody F!!! I don't want to buy an engine crane but it looks like I don't have a choice. I had planned on stripping it in-situ, taking it apart piece by piece and just lifting them out by hand, rebuilding and reassembling the same way. I had hoped by the time the head and ancillaries were all off I could easily see how to remove the block and gearbox, but NO! Stupid thing. It looked so good to work on, and that was only the FIRST problem. SECOND problem.... a rounded rocker cover bolt. I mean COME ON!!!!! 10mm socket is what it should be, but it just kept slipping. imageshack.com/i/kqDTyoY8jAfter so many different screw arounds, the solution, a metal file, a hammer, a 3/8" socket, two socket adapters and my breaker bar... imageshack.com/i/eyD7o983jThat gave a clearer view of the mixing problem. The coolant was perfectly green when I drained it, well the barely 1 litre of it was, so the coolant pressure is higher than the oil where the leak is, and it is likely only in one spot. imageshack.com/i/iqUx0kMKjimageshack.com/i/excYZshrjSo in conclusion, please help with instructions on how to remove the bloody engine and/or crankshaft pulley bolt, before I lose it, smash this car with a hammer and set it on fire.
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Post by justyfied on Aug 2, 2014 11:08:38 GMT -4
Alright Rowan , I will throw in my 2 bits, see if it is of any help. I would take out the engine block without head the on and use an impact gun on it. You will have the same problem with the bolts holding the flywheel on. Damn tight they are! The engine as just a block would not be all that heavy, I carry 3 cylinder engines around (But I'm a big galoot!) so I bet you would find the EK is manageable. If you remove the rad, and the grill and rad support there is not much in the way to a small lift and remove out the front. I have heard of but never tried it myself: Put a nice tight fitting socket with big long handled breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt with the bar braced up against the car. Hit the starter for a second and pow the bolt is loose. As for your rocker cover bolts, they may be corroded as you have galvanic corrosion when you have dissimilar metals next to each other. Experience will tell you to expect this possibility before the bolt head gets rounded. Before attempting it for the first time you could try giving it a good hard rap with a hammer straight down, then try tightening it slowly and carefully just enough to bring up some torque but not enough to twist the head off. If it looks like it will be a royal battle you can try heating it with a cutting torch, but who has one of those handy eh? Anyway, once the head of the bolt is rounded than the only 2 options are 1st to use a pair of vise grip pliers and if that fails then chisel the bolt head off and then later remove the bolt body.
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Post by lincolntbird on Aug 3, 2014 12:37:04 GMT -4
Alright, so the first problem I faced is STILL a problem. No matter what I try I can't get the FECKING crankshaft/alternator belt pulley bolt out..... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried fashioning a bracket to replicate the speciality tool, but that failed. I tried using a bolt and wedging a big spanner between it and the sway bars, but that didn't work because the angles were wrong and it just kept falling out. I then evolved that idea, which I thought was pure genius, and setup a car stand so the side bolt was sitting on the car stand. BA-BOW... nope... the damned engine mounts have way too much movement in them so it just lifted the whole engine as I tried to crack the main bolt. imageshack.com/i/eyfx8hjdjI think my ONLY option is to remove the engine.... but now I can't find ANY instructions on how to do that. I don't know where all the bolts are, which ones don't need to be removed or anything like that. I have BOTH a digital and hard copy of what turns out to be the same workshop manual. Neither have any instructions on removing the engine. It's great for stripping the engine, but it STARTS at "attach the engine stand..." ummm W...T....bloody F!!! I don't want to buy an engine crane but it looks like I don't have a choice. I had planned on stripping it in-situ, taking it apart piece by piece and just lifting them out by hand, rebuilding and reassembling the same way. I had hoped by the time the head and ancillaries were all off I could easily see how to remove the block and gearbox, but NO! Stupid thing. It looked so good to work on, and that was only the FIRST problem. SECOND problem.... a rounded rocker cover bolt. I mean COME ON!!!!! 10mm socket is what it should be, but it just kept slipping. imageshack.com/i/kqDTyoY8jAfter so many different screw arounds, the solution, a metal file, a hammer, a 3/8" socket, two socket adapters and my breaker bar... imageshack.com/i/eyD7o983jThat gave a clearer view of the mixing problem. The coolant was perfectly green when I drained it, well the barely 1 litre of it was, so the coolant pressure is higher than the oil where the leak is, and it is likely only in one spot. imageshack.com/i/iqUx0kMKjimageshack.com/i/excYZshrjLet us know if you need any further help, that is what we are here for. So in conclusion, please help with instructions on how to remove the bloody engine and/or crankshaft pulley bolt, before I lose it, smash this car with a hammer and set it on fire.
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Post by sikari2015 on Aug 9, 2014 7:31:41 GMT -4
Right excellent, just what I'm after, thanks. I can't get the head off. I can't get the timing belt off, because I can't get the crankshaft alternator belt pulley off so can't get the timing cover off, freeing up the timing belt. My main problem with removing the engine was "where are all the mounting bolts?" One bolt under the exhaust, so remove the exhaust first. Then the obvious mounting arm on top of the engine. Then disconnect the bell housing. I have bought an engine crane because It will be easier to dismantle and rebuild the engine entirely on the engine stand I have, then reinstall it whole. Also I intend on using the engine crane for other projects like my V8 Monaro, which a tad heavier than the entire Sherpa. I does the gearbox have to come out entirely to get the engine out or will the engine slide to the left enough to be freed from the input shaft? I've never actually worked on a transverse or FWD car before so that's new to me... the whole all in one gearbox/diff. I expect my air tools will make light work of most of this. Next break from work I will continue with the tear down.
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Post by lincolntbird on Aug 9, 2014 9:22:39 GMT -4
You can leave the gearbox in the car, there is enough room to slip the motor away from the bell housing & lift it free.
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Post by sikari2015 on Aug 10, 2014 21:22:51 GMT -4
Excellent. I'll have a crack at it over the next couple of days.
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Post by sikari2015 on Aug 15, 2014 5:16:24 GMT -4
Okay, update time. So, tried to take the engine out with as little other removal as possible. Anyone who has taken the EK42 out of an 83 Sherpa before would know how "easy" that is. Basically, you can't. If you want to take the engine out you need to take the exhaust off so you can get to one of the bolts mounting the engine to transmission. To get the exhaust manifold and muffler assembly out, you need to remove a few things first. First, I tried just taking off the grille. As you can see that let me get to the manifold mounting bolts. So, then I can disconnect the rusted on tailpipe and lift the mani-muffler out of the way... hmm no. How about this next. Hmm, nope. Radiator out also didn't get enough room to get the mani-muffler out. Basically I needed to get my air tools into this opening, because hand tools didn't budge it, even with a big-ass breaker bar. There's a bolt in the dark connecting the engine and gearbox. So, needed more room. Next step was this. Yep, you bet. You gotta take it off. VERY EASY however, which was great. With the Rad support off it was very easy to get the mani-muffler out of the way. Should have just started with this. Made me realise why every photo I've seen of a Sherpa with the engine out it didn't have the Rad supports installed. Next, my new toy got built and moved into position. Connected it up. And after some wiggling, pry-barring, raising, lowering, shoving and wiggling more again the monster was free. Next, I still need to get a tool to lock the crankshaft, but I know I can get a flywheel locking key mush easier than any other kind. In fact, already ordered one. I can then take the alternator pulley, clutch and flywheel off before putting the engine on the engine stand I have to do the full strip and rebuild. Nice to know.
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Post by lincolntbird on Aug 16, 2014 13:21:56 GMT -4
Great pics & description. Glad you finally got a result .
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Post by justyfied on Aug 18, 2014 15:43:18 GMT -4
Thanks for posting a nice big batch of pictures, glad to see you have made some progress. I have had luck in the past using a large pry-bar or very large standard flat blade screw driver jammed into the teeth on the flywheel where the starter engages. then have it braced up against a bolt reinstalled to the block.
Please keep us updated.
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Post by sikari2015 on Aug 19, 2014 8:51:31 GMT -4
I've got a flywheel locking tool coming in the mail. Until then I shall work on cleaning up the engine bay over my next few days off.
I plan to do a full body respray down the track, but for now just the engine bay while I have access.
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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 9, 2014 8:40:54 GMT -4
Update will be coming soon. Been busy with other things with only rarely getting work done on the engine. I have been taking photos along the way, though, so there will be plenty soon enough Just sand blasted and repainted the engine block today. Never in my life have I owned a tool that produces so much mess for such little result as a sand blaster... :S
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Post by lincolntbird on Sept 9, 2014 11:34:27 GMT -4
Aren't sandblasters fun , you end up wearing half the sand .
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