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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 12, 2014 22:23:48 GMT -4
Engine rebuild has been coming along well, until it wasn't. One of the pistons has decided to lose a piece, from the ring groove I guess you could say. I've posted in the Wanted To Buy section, as I need a new one. I was going to repair some scratches in the side of the piston but then that little piece of awesome fell out and the plan immediately changed. Other than that everything else looks alright. My gasket kit doesn't have the camshaft timing cover seal though, which I think is odd, so I also need to source a replacement one of them. So, some pictures for you. Flywheel locking tool. timing gear ready to be removed Flywheel removed Timing gear removed Vanity shots before further stripping Bow chica bow wow, it's getting hot in here... Engine main wiring harness removed. Took me FOREVER Inlet manifold off. No damage, just dirty (gotta love aluminium alloys) Inlet of head, again damage free.
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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 12, 2014 22:32:43 GMT -4
More pictures (I've got 41 all up) Evidence of the offending coolant-to-oil-injection problem Rollover Some metal fragments in the sump looking clean, but oily if you know what I mean Camshaft out, more lingering coolant in the oil chambers. Head bolts coming out, I was clever and numbered them with the order to reinstall them according to the manual, that way I don't mix them up and they go back in the same place. No use in upsetting 31 years of sitting. Have a look at the head gasket on that one! Wow! Yeah, other than some of the water holes being partially clogged with gunk, the head gasket was fine. The cause of the coolant injection into oil has yet to be found.... but stay tuned.
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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 12, 2014 22:41:09 GMT -4
Part 3 of 4 More inspection of the head gasket Overall the block surface looks okay, just some gunk in some of the water ports. Valves are a tight fit, did leak any degreaser at all, not even a single bubble. I've got new valve stem seals, so will still replace those, but I at least won't need to hone the seats and valves themselves.... will still use a bit of cutting compound just to clean the ports up a bit, of course. Why not, hey? bad photo of the pistons. Mmmm carbon. I love how this photo made me understand exactly how a two cylinder 4 stroke engine actually works. Yep, the pistons are perfectly aligned, both moving the same direction at the same time. That way each up stroke one cylinder ignites, while the other is exhausting. It's a 2 stroke engine, split into two parts if that makes sense. Steering wheel remover.... to remove the crankshaft timing pulley. Yep, it worked well. Next picture will show more.
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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 12, 2014 22:52:25 GMT -4
Part 4 of 4 Purchased some high tensile bolts with the right threads, central bolt has two nuts to hold the puller in place and also wind it out as I turn the socket wrench. Slow and steady, works a treat. And Now, FOR YOUR VIEWING PLEASURE.... what I believe is the OFFENDING COOLANT INJECTOR!!!! The water pump shaft seal! May be difficult to see, but at the tip of the screwdriver the seal is bulged and damaged. I can't really find anywhere else that coolant could get into the oil, as there aren't any corrosion holes anywhere. I do need to check the block for holes in the water jackets, but as there was no oil in the coolant I think this location, the water pump where the pressure is the highest, is the culprit. Pistons removed. Rocker cover inside shot after removing the pressure control cover and cleaning out the mass of greeny-white oil. One of the dimetal flaps cleaned, the other yet to receive the rub down. all clean and reinstalled. Cast aluminium parts all cleaned up ready for some paint. Decided to paint these ones rather than polish them because of their varying states of dirt encrustment. I WILL be polishing the head and the rocker cover, however. Blue! I used a dark Ford blue as it was the closest I could find to the original colour. Silver! Actually called brushed aluminium on the spray can. Just a mock up of the timing cover in all the painted glory.
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Post by justyfied on Sept 13, 2014 11:35:34 GMT -4
Wow, amazing batch of pictures, really show the insides well. You have gotten the outside looking really good now. Yes you certainly Had a situation where the coolant was in the oil sump where it doesn't belong! You are lucky to still have a rebuild able engine. The water pump seal does seem like the most likely culprit. Great thread so far, hope we can help with what you need.
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Post by lincolntbird on Sept 16, 2014 12:29:26 GMT -4
Engine rebuild has been coming along well, until it wasn't. One of the pistons has decided to lose a piece, from the ring groove I guess you could say. I've posted in the Wanted To Buy section, as I need a new one. I was going to repair some scratches in the side of the piston but then that little piece of awesome fell out and the plan immediately changed. Other than that everything else looks alright. My gasket kit doesn't have the camshaft timing cover seal though, which I think is odd, so I also need to source a replacement one of them. So, some pictures for you. Flywheel locking tool. timing gear ready to be removed Flywheel removed Timing gear removed Vanity shots before further stripping Bow chica bow wow, it's getting hot in here... Engine main wiring harness removed. Took me FOREVER Inlet manifold off. No damage, just dirty (gotta love aluminium alloys) Inlet of head, again damage free.
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Post by lincolntbird on Sept 16, 2014 12:33:43 GMT -4
When you say camshaft timing cover seal which seal do you mean? The foam type seal that goes between the inner and outer covers or the oil seal on the end of the camshaft in the head?
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Post by sikari2015 on Sept 23, 2014 7:25:00 GMT -4
I got it wrong, it was the CRANKSHAFT timing cover seal... which incidentally is actually identical to the Camshaft seal. I got a pair of them from Sprint Auto, Kelpro # 97179.
I had to jerry-rig a tool for compressing the valve springs because the OHC compressor I bought couldn't grip anywhere. Disappointing, but I did use part of it with a quick clamp to get the job done. More photos and progress will follow shortly, hopefully including the replacement piston.
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Post by sikari2015 on Oct 5, 2014 10:13:08 GMT -4
Just a quick update, no photos right now. So sourced replacement pistons, both were so gummed up with dirt and rust that it was stupid trying to get the old rings off. One of them is so bad it's practically unusable, but the other I was eventually able to extract the old rings. I froze it, baked it, froze it again and baked it again, but that didn't work. I eventually just got enough leverage on the rings to bend and snap a little bit out. It was then just a matter of continuing that until they were completely removed. I have photos for later. Then cleaned the thing and filed it down to fit better with good tolerances. New rings done and both pistons reinstalled. Unfortunately the replacement con-rod bearings are wrong so I had to reuse the old ones, but they were in good condition anyway. I now need to source a replacement water pump impellor shaft seal. I've found one online in Europe, comes as a kit for around 30 Euros so it's expensive when you think about it. Hopefully Subaru will be able to help out, I'm going to give them a try in the next week when I'm on holiday. Won't update again until I'm back, but will include photos.
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Post by lincolntbird on Oct 6, 2014 10:19:18 GMT -4
Hi sikari, I have a spare genuine water pump if you are interested, I would sell it to you for what it cost me plus postage. Sounds like you are making better progress than me with the rebuild. I have come to a stand still, mostly due to time & trying to get the new workshop set up.
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Post by sikari2015 on Oct 20, 2014 5:29:38 GMT -4
Thanks for the offer, but Subaru were able to order me the water pump mechanical seal from Japan, delivered to my door, for only $27! Bargain! I've also just gone ahead and spend the most money on a single item for this rebuild... $297 for a radiator re-core, respray and pressure test, plus $11 for a new radiator cap. pretty pleased with the turn out, and even more pleased that it literally took the workshop 3 hours to have completely finished. That was amazing actually. I've begun working on refurbishing the front brakes, need to buy a 27mm socket for the hub nuts, then I can get the rest of the hub assembly out and replace all 4 CV boots. The joints seem to be in good condition. I will also give the whole suspension a clean, seem pretty good condition and shouldn't need replacing for a while. Again, more photos will come once the seal is delivered and I can crack on and finish engine reassembly. Getting so very close to having her back on the road, I HOPE by the first week of November, but will probably be more likely the 30th of November. Interior and bodywork won't be touched yet, except for the engine bay which will be cleaned, rust patched and painted to compliment the rebuilt engine. It's getting exciting.
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Post by lincolntbird on Oct 20, 2014 10:44:47 GMT -4
Subaru seem to be pretty good with prices for the parts that they can supply for the EK42. It's just a shame they don't supply over size pistons & rings. Good too hear that you are cracking on with your Sherpa. I need to get back into my Sherpa engine, but at the moment I have an engine rebuild to do on a customers TE20 Ferguson tractor, otherwise known as a 28 Fergy or a little Grey Fergy. Looking forward to your photo update when you get it done.
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Post by sikari2015 on Nov 2, 2014 8:39:52 GMT -4
Work is coming along, photos are being taken along the way, don't worry. I hope to have the car running again within a fortnight, but won't be rushing anything just to make that happen. Also I've bought another project car and I've been dropping some cash into that recently. It's a 1979 VB Commodore SLE. It is a survivor, 98% complete and all the missing parts have been ordered. Just going through what doesn't work, getting that fixed and then going to sell the car. Market suggests I should make 15-25% profit on it. Will be good to keep funding flowing for the Sherpa and Monaro "labours of love". I don't mind spending money on my keepers, but I'm trying hard to keep a tight budget on this hopefully quick flip. Here's a Sherpa pic to keep you interested. *spoilers*
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Post by justyfied on Nov 2, 2014 12:10:57 GMT -4
That is looking really nice, very clean and tidy. Keep us posted and good luck on the sale of the other car.
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Post by lincolntbird on Nov 5, 2014 11:04:25 GMT -4
Work is coming along, photos are being taken along the way, don't worry. I hope to have the car running again within a fortnight, but won't be rushing anything just to make that happen. Also I've bought another project car and I've been dropping some cash into that recently. It's a 1979 VB Commodore SLE. It is a survivor, 98% complete and all the missing parts have been ordered. Just going through what doesn't work, getting that fixed and then going to sell the car. Market suggests I should make 15-25% profit on it. Will be good to keep funding flowing for the Sherpa and Monaro "labours of love". I don't mind spending money on my keepers, but I'm trying hard to keep a tight budget on this hopefully quick flip. Here's a Sherpa pic to keep you interested. *spoilers* Looking good, coming along nicely. Hope all goes well and as planned with the VB. You've got a classic there. They are getting thin on the ground these days.
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